Having not been particularly impressed with the breakfast joints in Albert Park to date, and having given the area plenty of second chances, I wasn’t excited to venture down to Truman, the newest joint around the traps. To my surprise and delight, this kitschy but fresh-looking cafe on Montague St turned out to be a winner.
I’m always a fan of a varied breakfast menu with lots of savoury options, and Truman has versions of all my favourite brekkie dishes – Connie’s Eggs, which are eggs poached in a Napoli sauce with spinach and chorizo (yum) and sweet corn fritters with poached eggs with salsa, avocado and coriander.
What was most joyful was that eggs benedict featured on the menu, which I haven’t seen for many moons in a cafe’s brekkie repertoire. I think this is because the ol’ eggs benny is considered a bit of a has-been and has been shafted for the home made baked beans and shakshouka egg options you see at all the trendy inner city cafés these days. Not one to be deterred by uncoolness and armed with a healthy obsession for hollandaise sauce, I chose the Eggs Benedict with ham, and a side of mushrooms and avocado.
The eggs benny was served with white baguette bread which was delicious, no doubt, but difficult to manoeuvre due to its size, outer crunchiness and inner fluffiness. Regardless, this texture went incredibly well with the buttery, creamy hollandaise, which was abundant and didn’t disappoint, like the more vinegary, drier, less creamy invocations I’ve had at other, lesser cafes.
The ham was off the bone and tender and delicious, and the poached eggs, while not at the Mixed Business standard of perfect consistency, were pretty good, if a little overcooked. The mushrooms were incredibly flavourful and infused with balsamic and rosemary, and the smashed avocado was incredibly creamy, which instilled plenty of faith in the Truman owners’ ability to select quality produce.
So the verdict: good, varied menu, charming kitschy décor, a sound selection of specials that change on a daily basis, excellent coffee and an understanding of produce. They need to work on the friendliness of their service and maybe finesse their poached egg process, but apart from those tiny hiccups, Truman are well on their way to becoming a Melbourne breakfast institution.